QUESTIONS... and detailed answers

Most hardwood floor refinishing projects in Los Angeles take between 3–5 days to complete. The refinishing process usually involves sanding (1–2 days), staining if requested (1 day), and applying protective finish coats (1–2 days).

Timeline Breakdown:

• Day 1: Set-up, prep and sanding to remove old finish
• Day 2: Fine sanding, stain application (if chosen)
• Day 3: First finish coat application
• Day 4: Final finish coats and cleanup

Factors That May Extend Timeline:

• Home size: Larger homes may need 5–7+ days
• Repairs needed: Water damage or board replacements add 1–2 days
• Staining: Custom color staining adds 1 extra day
• Stairs: Stair refinishing adds 1–2 days

When you request a quote, we’ll come out to inspect your floors and provide a more precise timeframe. But most hardwood floor refinishing projects we work on in Los Angeles are typically finished and ready to walk on within 3–5 days.

Yes, you can stay home during hardwood floor refinishing, but you'll need to stay off the floors for 4–8 hours after each finish coat and 24 hours after the final coat. Many homeowners choose to stay elsewhere for 1–2 nights for convenience.

What to Expect if You Stay Home

• During Sanding (Days 1–2): Noise levels moderate to loud during work hours (8am–5pm); dust is minimal with our dustless sanding systems; most areas of your home remain accessible.
• During Finishing (Days 3–4): Stay off floors 4–8 hours after each coat; ventilation required (windows open, fans running); refinished areas are completely off-limits.
• After Final Coat: Full 24-hour restriction with no foot traffic; access issues may occur if refinishing walkways, entryways, or multiple rooms; some finish odors for 12–24 hours.

When Staying Elsewhere Makes Sense

• Refinishing the entire main floor or multiple connecting rooms
• Homes with limited alternative pathways
• Families with young children or pets
• Sensitivity to finish odors

During your in-home estimate, we'll review your specific project and help create a plan that works best to minimize disruption for your family while ensuring the best results for your floors. If you’d like to get started, you can request a quote today.

Yes, CMC Hardwood Floors is fully licensed and insured in Los Angeles. Our California contractor's license number is #966964, which you can verify anytime on the Contractors State Licensing Board (CSLB) website.

Why licensing and insurance matter:

• Hiring an unlicensed contractor can void your home insurance coverage if poor-quality work or accidents occur.
• You could be held financially responsible for injuries on the job if the company isn't properly insured.
• Unlicensed contractors cannot pull permits, which means the work you may not meet Los Angeles building codes—causing safety issues and future problems when selling your home.
• Without liability coverage, you would be left paying for any damage to your home or belongings.

Our coverage includes:

• Liability Insurance: $2,000,000 in coverage for your protection.
• Workers Compensation: Full coverage for our employees, ensuring you are never at risk for workplace injury claims.

We strongly recommend verifying that any hardwood flooring contractor you hire in Los Angeles has the proper license, liability insurance, and workers compensation coverage in place. You can easily check the status of a Los Angeles hardwood flooring business license on the Contractors State Licensing Board (CSLB) website .

If you have just a few small pieces that need to be moved around, we can help you move them, but we don’t provide full furniture moving services. Our insurance doesn't cover us for damage if something is damaged or we are injured, so we recommend using professional movers for all your larger items.

What We Can Help With:

• Small lightweight items

What You’ll Need to Arrange:

• Moving heavy furniture (sofas, dressers, beds)
• Relocating items to other rooms or storage
• Moving furniture back after floors dry and cure (3–5 days later)

Professional Moving Options:

• Local moving companies: Full-service, insured for furniture moving
• Portable storage pods: PODS, U-Pack containers for temporary storage

Planning Tips:

• Schedule movers 1–2 days before we start sanding
• Plan for the furniture to be put back in place 3–5 days after project completion

Why We Recommend Professional Movers:

• Proper insurance coverage for your belongings
• Specialized equipment (like air-slides) for heavy/valuable items
• Trained staff experienced in safe furniture handling
• Protection from liability if accidents occur

Most of our clients find that hiring professional movers or using portable storage makes the refinishing process much smoother and stress-free.

Yes, we provide complete carpet removal and disposal services. This includes removing the carpet, padding, tack strips, and staples, plus disposing of all materials responsibly.

What’s Included in Carpet Removal:

• Careful removal of existing carpet and padding
• Tack strip removal along the edges of the rooms
• Removing the hundreds of staples from the floor
• Disposal of all materials in accordance with local regulations

Additional Considerations:

• Timing: Most carpet removal is completed in half a day for average-sized projects
• Access: All rooms we’re removing carpet from must be completely empty
• Subfloor inspection: After removal, we’ll assess and identify any repairs needed

If you’d like carpet removal included, let us know when requesting a quote. We’ll add it to your project plan with clear, detailed pricing.

We provide hardwood floor refinishing and installation services throughout Los Angeles and surrounding areas. Our primary service areas include West Hollywood, Beverly Hills, Brentwood, Westwood, Bel Air, Pacific Palisades, Santa Monica, Venice, Studio City, Sherman Oaks, Encino, Malibu, Culver City, and many other nearby neighborhoods.

Westside & Beach Cities

• Santa Monica
• Venice
• Venice Beach
• Pacific Palisades
• Malibu
• Malibu Lake
• Cheviot Hills

Central Neighborhoods

• Beverly Hills
• Bel Air
• Brentwood
• West Hollywood
• Hollywood Hills
• Mt Olympus
• Laurel Canyon
• Los Angeles

Valley Areas

• Studio City
• Sherman Oaks
• Encino
• Burbank

San Gabriel Valley & Surroundings

• Pasadena
• Altadena
• Arcadia

We also service the greater Los Angeles area. If you’re located nearby but don’t see your neighborhood listed, just reach out for a quote—we likely work in your area too.

Yes, we do work on Saturdays when needed—usually for applying the final finish coat so your project stays on schedule. However, we avoid heavy sanding or running large equipment on Saturdays to minimize disruption for you and your neighbors.

We don’t work on Sundays though sorry. This day is for spending time with our families and a much-needed rest. We appreciate your understanding.

We use a dustless sanding system that captures dust at the source and prevents it from spreading through your home. Our specialized vacuum and containment equipment are designed to remove over 99% of airborne dust during the hardwood floor refinishing process.

This means your home stays cleaner, the air quality is healthier, and cleanup is minimized compared to traditional sanding methods. Clients often tell us they’re amazed at how little dust they see throughout the project.

We include our standard dustless equipment on every project at no extra charge. Upgrade options are available for customers who want absolute zero-dust results.

Our Dustless System:

Standard Equipment (Included):

• Powerful vacuum system with pre-separation drum and double cyclones
• HEPA filtration on all sanding equipment
• External vacuum setup – dust is captured and contained outside
• 97% dust capture rate – dramatically reduces cleanup (99%+ with optional upgrades below)

How It Works:

• Belt sanders connected to cyclone vacuum system
• Edge sanders hooked to separate HEPA filter vacuums
• Dust vortex technology separates particles before they escape
• Sealed containment prevents dust from entering your home

Optional Upgrades Available:

Room Sealing

• Plastic sheeting barriers for complete isolation
• Non-marking painter’s tape (safe for walls)
• Creates dust-free zones in adjacent areas

Complete Cleanup Service

• Detailed vacuuming and wiping of all surfaces
• Removes both sanding dust and pre-existing dust
• 100% satisfaction guarantee – we’ll return if not completely dust-free
• Floors and rooms are move-in ready when we’re finished

For more details, visit our Dustless Sanding page to learn exactly how the system works.

When getting quotes from local Los Angeles hardwood floor businesses, ask about dust containment, who will work on your project, the type of finish they recommend, proof of insurance, and recent customer references. These five questions will help you compare companies fairly and avoid costly risks.

5 Essential Questions to Ask

How do you handle dust containment?
• Ask if they use a dustless system or traditional cloth bags
Why this matters: Traditional sanding spreads dust everywhere, creating a huge mess to clean up

Who will actually be working on my project?
• Will it be the owner, employees, or subcontractors?
• How experienced is the crew? Can you meet them beforehand?
Why this matters: You want skilled, trustworthy professionals in your home (ideally the owner), not inexperienced subcontractors

What type of finish do you recommend, and why?
• Ask for specific brands, number of coats, and warranty details
Why this matters: Cheap finishes wear quickly; quality finishes protect your floors long-term

Do you have proper liability insurance and Workers Comp?
• Request proof of active coverage
• Verify they carry at least $2 million in liability insurance
Why this matters: Without coverage, YOU could be liable for accidents, injuries, or property damage

Can I see references from recent customers?
• Ask for at least three references from the past 2–3 years
Why this matters: Established companies will gladly provide references to prove their expertise

Red Flags to Watch For

• No proof of insurance
• No recent local references
• Quotes far below competitors (often means shortcuts will be taken)

📄 Download our free guide: 5 Questions You Should Ask PDF for full explanations and extra tips.

Solid wood flooring is exactly what it sounds like—solid wood all the way through each plank. Whereas Engineered hardwood flooring has a real hardwood top layer bonded to a base of high-quality plywood.

Key Differences

Wear Layer & Sanding Lifespan
Solid hardwood typically has about 5/16” (8mm) of usable wear layer above the tongue and groove, so it can usually be sanded up to five times in its lifetime. Engineered floors vary, but many premium options have wear layers similar to solid wood and can be sanded multiple times as well.

Moisture & Stability
Engineered flooring is more stable in environments with fluctuating moisture. It can be installed in basements or directly over concrete slabs—situations where solid wood is not suitable. Solid wood expands and contracts more with humidity and generally requires a plywood subfloor.

Environmental Impact
Solid wood uses much more raw lumber than engineered flooring. From the same log, you can manufacture three to four times as much engineered flooring, making it more resource-efficient and better for the environment.

Popularity & Recommendations
Today, about 98% of the new floors we install are high-quality, thick-wear-layer engineered floors. They provide the same beauty and durability as solid hardwood while offering far greater installation flexibility.

During your in-home estimate, we’ll show you real samples of both solid and engineered floors and walk you through the pros and cons so you can make the best choice for your home.

No. Engineered floors can look very similar on the surface, but the quality really comes down to two things: the thickness of the top wear layer and the quality of the plywood base.

Wear Layer (the real wood on top)

Some engineered floors only have a super-thin veneer of wood—sometimes less than 2 mm. These can’t be sanded; at best, they can be recoated. Better-quality floors have a sawn wear layer that’s 3 mm or thicker. At the top end, premium engineered floors have a wear layer up to 5/16” (8 mm)—almost identical to solid wood. These can be sanded and refinished multiple times, giving them a lifespan close to solid hardwood.

Core / Plywood Base

The base layers matter just as much. Budget products may use only 3 layers of soft, low-grade plywood, which makes them less stable. High-quality engineered floors are built with 7–9 layers of strong, cross-laminated plywood (often birch), which keeps them stable and durable—even in tricky environments like basements or concrete slabs.

Bottom Line

With engineered hardwood, you really do get what you pay for. Thin wear layers and weak cores save money up front but don’t last. Thicker wear layers and strong multi-ply bases cost more but deliver decades of beauty, stability, and flexibility.

When we visit for your in-home estimate, we’ll bring samples ranging from entry-level to premium so you can see, touch, and compare the differences for yourself.

Engineered hardwood is the best choice for concrete slabs. After we prep and seal the concrete, we can glue the floor directly to the slab, giving you a solid, quiet feel and excellent long-term stability.

Your options on a slab

Best option: Engineered hardwood (glue-down)
Stable construction handles slab moisture changes better than solid wood. We prep the slab (moisture testing, crack repair, leveling) and apply a moisture/vapor barrier if needed, then glue the floor down.

When solid hardwood is possible
Solid wood cannot be nailed directly to concrete. To use solid, we must install a vapor barrier and a plywood subfloor first so there’s something to nail into. This adds height and transitions at doorways and increases cost and project time.

What we do before installing over concrete

• Check slab moisture and conditions
• Repair cracks, grind/level as needed
• Install the appropriate moisture/vapor barrier
• Recommend products with a thicker wear layer for longevity

Our Recommendation: For concrete slabs, we almost always recommend high-quality engineered hardwood with a thick wear layer. You'll get the beauty of real hardwood with better performance and lower installation costs.

During your free estimate, we'll assess your concrete slab and show you the best engineered options for your specific situation.

If your home has a plywood subfloor that’s above grade (not directly on concrete), you have the choice to install either solid hardwood or engineered hardwood flooring. Both options work really well when installed correctly.

Installation Methods

• Nail or Staple Down
  Solid and engineered hardwood can both be nailed or stapled into the plywood. This creates a very secure, traditional installation.
• Glue Down
  Engineered hardwood is also commonly glued directly to plywood when conditions allow. This can help reduce hollow spots and provides a firm feel underfoot.
• Glue + Nail Combo (Wide Planks 7” and Up)
  For wide plank floors over 7 inches, we often recommend a combination of glue and nails. The glue bonds the boards tightly to the subfloor, while nails provide additional hold. This hybrid method prevents cupping or movement and keeps your wide planks looking great for decades.

Key Considerations

• Solid hardwood expands and contracts more with humidity, so proper acclimation is essential before installation.
• Engineered hardwood is more dimensionally stable and may be a better choice if your home has big seasonal moisture swings.

In most cases, our Los Angeles clients choose engineered hardwood for added stability but with the same look, feel, and functionality. But if you love the idea of a traditional solid wood floor, a plywood subfloor gives you the perfect base.

The exact acclimation time depends on several factors, including the type of hardwood you choose and the moisture levels in both your subfloor and the room itself. If the wood goes in before it has adjusted to your home’s environment, you can end up with gapping or cupping later—which neither of us want.

Before installation, we always test both the subfloor and the new flooring with a professional moisture meter. This tells us how far apart the levels are and how much time the flooring needs to adjust.

Typical Acclimation Timeline:

• In most cases: 4 days to 2 weeks
• Faster if your home and subfloor already have similar moisture levels
• Longer if there’s a bigger gap between the wood and the environment

This process ensures your new floors stay stable, beautiful, and trouble-free for years to come. Taking the proper time for acclimation prevents costly problems down the road. A few extra days of patience now saves you from gaps, cupping, or other issues that would require repairs later.

We'll determine the exact acclimation time needed when we deliver the flooring based on moisture readings and your specific home conditions.

Possibly. It depends on the depth of the scratches. When we sand your floor, we will always strive to preserve the top wear layer as much as we possibly can. By doing this, you will have the option to sand it and refinish it again in the future.

For shallow to moderate scratches, sanding usually removes them effectively. But if you have very deep scratches, gouges and damaged sections, sanding alone isn’t always the best solution. In those cases, we often recommend replacing the affected boards instead. That way, we avoid grinding down too much of the floor and unnecessarily shortening its lifespan.

Most hardwood floors can only be fully sanded and refinished about 3–5 times in their lifetime, depending on the wear layer thickness. Being careful and wary about preservation makes a big difference.

When we come out for your estimate, we’ll inspect the damage and give you the best recommendation—whether that’s sanding or board replacement—so your floor looks great without sacrificing longevity.

The short answer is no for existing floors, and maybe for certain new installations.

Why not existing floors?

Wood naturally expands and contracts with seasonal changes in temperature and humidity. In winter, your heating lowers indoor humidity, causing wood to shrink and gaps to appear. In summer, humidity rises and the boards expand. That’s also why doors in older homes sometimes stick in summer but swing freely in winter.

If we were to fill your gaps with putty or filler, seasonal movement would push it right back out. Not only does this look terrible as chunks of filler pop loose, but it can also get ground into your floor’s finish and cause damage. For these reasons, we strongly recommend not filling existing floor gaps.

When it can be done

On new glue-down installations, especially when boards are 1 ½” to 3” wide, we can apply a special trowel filler across the whole surface to disguise small gaps. This method works well in controlled conditions and gives a more seamless look.

We can explain more about this process when we visit for your in-home quote.

Yes. most of the time pet stains and water damage (such as from pot plants) can be repaired. In many cases, though, the boards will need to be replaced since this type of damage usually cannot be fully sanded out.

When we come out to inspect your home, we’ll look at all areas needing repairs and include it in the quote we give you. If you have carpet covering damaged areas that we couldn’t see during the in-home estimate, and we find it only after removing the carpet, we'll be in touch immediately to discuss how you would like us to proceed.

In most cases, it’s not necessary to remove the baseboards before sanding and refinishing. We can sand very close to the edges and then use a hand scraper to remove the remaining finish for a clean, professional look.

However, if your base shoe or baseboards are already damaged—or if you’re planning to replace them as part of your remodel—we can assist with removal and installation of new trim.

Yes, we can install these as part of your project. You can choose either solid wood that matches your flooring or primed white material. With primed wood, you’ll need to arrange for it to be painted after the floors are finished and fully cured.

We do not remove and replace existing baseboards or base shoe, but we’re happy to install new trim as part of your flooring project.

Yes, we can sand and refinish under these areas if the appliances are removed prior to our arrival. Because we aren’t licensed to handle plumbing, electrical, or gas fitting work, you’ll need to have the appliances professionally disconnected and moved out of the way before we begin.

For especially large or heavy appliances—such as Sub-Zero refrigerators—it’s often best to leave them in place. In those cases, we can carefully sand and finish around them to avoid damage or unnecessary complications.

In some cases, yes—engineered hardwood floors can be refinished. But it depends on two important factors:

A: How is it installed?

• Floating floors (not glued or nailed down) generally cannot be sanded because they move too much under the machines.
• Floors that are glued or nailed to a flat subfloor may be refinished—if the wear layer is thick enough.

B: What is the wear layer?

• Many engineered floors have a thin top layer of wood.
• If the top layer is less than 5/16” (about 8mm), sanding is too risky.
• Premium engineered floors with thicker wear layers can usually be refinished 1–2 times, similar to solid hardwood.

The Bottom Line:

Not all engineered floors can be refinished. If you’re not sure how thick your floor’s wear layer is, or the installation method used, give us a call. We’ll be happy to come out and inspect it and let you know the best option for your home.

That’s a great question—and one you should ask any floor refinisher you’re considering working with.

Years ago, oil-based finishes had strong odors and heavy fumes that could linger for weeks. They weren’t great for health either, which is why those finishes are now banned here in California.

Our Finish Options

At CMC Hardwood Floors, we specialize in two finish systems:

• Water-based (single and two-component)
• Hardwax oils (like Rubio Monocoat)

Low-Odor, Family-Friendly Choices

If someone in your home is sensitive to smells and fumes, or you have kids or pets, then either one of our finish systems will be a good choice. Both systems have minimal odor:

• Water-based finishes – Mild smell while wet, but it’s just water evaporating, not solvents. The smell disappears quickly once dry.
• Hardwax oil (Rubio Monocoat) – Contains zero VOCs. Most clients say it smells similar to a cooking oil, and it fades fast.

On a “fume scale” of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the least fumes), both water-based and hardwax oil rank at the top— 5 out of 5—because there’s virtually no lingering off-gassing.

Want More Details?

We’ve put together a guide that compares finish types and ranks them by fumes, durability, and appearance...

📄 Download your free guide: Which Finish System Should You Choose? (PDF)

At CMC Hardwood Floors, we specialize in two finish systems we’ve tested and trust:

• Water-based finishes (single and two-component)
• Hardwax oils (like Rubio Monocoat)

Both are durable, low-odor, and safe for homes with children or pets.

If you’d like to understand all the pros and cons of each system—including durability, maintenance, and environmental impact—we’ve put together a detailed guide...

📄 Download your free guide: Which Finish System Should You Choose? (PDF).

You can change the color of your floors by staining them during the refinishing process. After sanding down to bare wood, we apply a stain or a colored oil with optional precolor treatments before sealing it with a protective finish. This completely transforms the look of your floors without the cost of replacement.

The Staining Process

• Extra fine sanding: Specialty sanders are used so the stain or oil absorbs evenly.
• Water popping: Raises the grain for a deeper, richer color and extra durability.
• Stain application: Applied by buffer, trowel, or hand depending on the product.

Your Color Options

• Rubio Monocoat Oil + Precolors: Eco-friendly, zero VOCs, and customizable color blends.
• Duraseal Stains: Classic stain colors, proven durability, and mixable shades.

What to Expect

• Adds about one extra day to the refinishing process.
• Some wood species (like oak) take stain especially well.
• We apply samples directly on your floor so you can choose with confidence.

We have two resources to help you with this decision:

Staining Services Page – Walks you through our full step-by-step process, with photos, explanations of each stage, and color charts.

📄 Download your free guide: What Color Should I Stain My Hardwood Floors? (PDF) – A downloadable guide to help answer the biggest questions we’re asked about staining.

Most of the hardwood floor refinishing projects we complete in Los Angeles fall between $4 to $8 per square foot for sanding and refinishing. That means an average-sized room usually costs $800 to $3,200, depending on the condition of your floors, the type of finish you choose, whether you want staining, and how complex the layout is.

Cost Breakdown

Basic Refinishing

• Sanding & refinishing: $4–$8 per sq ft
• Price depends on floor condition and finish chosen

Add-On Services

• Staining & precolor treatments: $1–$3 per sq ft
• Dust containment system: $300+ per job (for upgrade option)
• Carpet removal & disposal: $1–$2 per sq ft
• Floor repairs: $100–$1,000+ per section

What Affects Your Price

• Floor condition – floors with glue, wax, or severe damage cost more to restore
• Finish type – water-based vs. hardwax oil systems have different price points
• Room size & layout – larger spaces tend to be more cost-effective per sq ft
• Staining – adds extra labor, materials, and time
• Repairs needed – water damage, scratches, or board replacement increase costs

Every project is unique. We provide free estimates with detailed, itemized pricing tailored to your floors, finish choice, and any repairs needed—so you know exactly what to expect before we start.

Most hardwood floor installation projects in Los Angeles cost $8 to $25+ per square foot. That means an average-sized room could range from $2,400 to $8,000+, depending on the wood species, installation method, and project complexity.

For example, this installation in Venice Beach was much more affordable compared to a custom herringbone installation in Cheviot Hills .

Cost Breakdown

Installation Methods

• Nail-down installation (solid hardwood over plywood): $4–$6 per sq ft
• Glue-down installation (concrete/engineered/wide-plank): $7–$9 per sq ft
• Custom installation (herringbone, chevron): $10–$12 per sq ft

Wood Species (Material Costs)

• Oak & maple: $4–$10 per sq ft
• Walnut, hickory, cherry: $8–$15 per sq ft
• Exotic hardwoods (Brazilian cherry, mahogany, teak): $15–$40+ per sq ft

Additional Costs

• Stair installation: $1,000+
• Subfloor leveling/grinding: $2–$5 per sq ft
• Removing existing flooring: $2–$10+ per sq ft
• Carpet removal & disposal: $1–$2 per sq ft
• Moisture barriers: $1–$2 per sq ft
• Sanding & refinishing (unfinished floors): $4–$8 per sq ft
• Staining & precolor treatments (unfinished floors): $1–$3 per sq ft

What Affects Your Price

• Material choice – domestic woods like oak and maple are more affordable; exotics carry premium prices
• Floor type – solid vs. engineered affects both cost and installation method
• Room size & layout – larger spaces are more cost-effective per sq ft
• Subfloor condition – repairs and leveling add extra cost
• Installation pattern – herringbone and chevron add complexity and time
• Existing flooring removal – especially costly if dealing with tile or asbestos

Every installation project is unique. That’s why we provide free estimates with itemized pricing so you’ll know exactly what to expect before work begins.

Yes—we back all of our work with a 100% workmanship guarantee plus 8 clear service standards that protect you from start to finish. If your floor ever fails due to faulty workmanship on our part, we’ll promptly return and fix it at no cost. Beyond that, our guarantees cover professionalism, transparency, and quality, so you can feel confident throughout the process.

Our 100% Workmanship Guarantee

If your floor fails because of faulty workmanship, we’ll return and fix it promptly— at no cost to you.

8 Service Guarantees We Promise

Professionalism

• A prompt, clean crew that respects your time and schedule
• Careful handling of your home and belongings

Transparent Pricing

• Clear upfront investment discussions—you’ll always know what you’re paying for
• No surprise charges—prices don’t change once work begins
• Any additional work is documented in a written change order with your approval first

Security & Trust

• Alarm codes and keys kept safe and strictly confidential
• Fully insured with current, up-to-date policies

Quality Standards

• Work that meets (and often exceeds) National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) standards
• Optional dustless sanding system must meet your satisfaction
• Your complete satisfaction with the finished product is guaranteed

No Surprise Billing Policy

• If we uncover additional issues, we’ll alert you immediately
• We’ll make joint decisions with you on how to proceed with extra costs
• Written approval required before any additional work begins
• No hidden charges or unexpected work

Product Warranties

We enforce all manufacturer warranties on the products and finishes we use, so you’re protected both on the workmanship and the materials.

What This Means for You

From start to finish, you can expect professional service that respects your home, your time, and your schedule. We keep communication open and transparent so there are never any surprises, and we back everything with high-quality results that meet industry standards. We also have a reputation to uphold—and we’re not going to do anything to jeopardize that.

Great question. Before we begin working, we’ll need your help preparing your home so we can work safely and efficiently. This includes arranging furniture removal, ensuring 220V power access, reserving a parking spot, and making sure utilities and HVAC systems are running. The checklist below covers everything you’ll need to prepare so we can deliver the highest quality results.

Access Requirements

Electrical

• Provide a 220V power source with clear access to the electrical panel.
• We’ll install a booster box to safely power our equipment.

Utilities

• Access to a sink (kitchen or laundry preferred).
• Access to a bathroom for our crew.
• Keep your HVAC system running at normal living conditions (40–60% humidity is ideal to help finishes dry and cure properly).

Parking

• Please reserve at least one parking space as close as possible to your main entry for our trade vehicle (ideally the night before). Two spots would be ideal.

Furniture & Appliances

• Complete removal required — all furniture must be moved out before we arrive.
• Remove personal items, breakables, wall hangings, artwork, electronics, area rugs, and window treatments.
• Professional movers are recommended — we don’t provide moving services.
• Kitchen exception: In some cases, it’s safer to leave appliances in place to prevent cabinet/floor damage (we’ll advise during your estimate).

What You Need to Arrange

Professional services

• Plumbing (for toilet removal if needed).
• Gas appliance disconnection (for stoves if needed).
• Please schedule these at least 1 day before we start.

Other contractors

• Coordinate schedules so we have exclusive access during sanding and finishing.
• No other trades should be working in the home during finish application and curing — this ensures a contaminant-free environment for your finish.

The Day Before We Arrive

• Confirm reserved parking is available.
• Make sure rooms are empty and furniture is out.
• Ensure the electrical panel is accessible.
• Notify other contractors of our schedule.
• Arrange safe accommodation for pets.

In a perfect world, you’d wait a full week before moving back in—but we know that’s rarely possible. Here’s what to expect with our finish systems:

High-End Residential & Commercial Grade Water-Based

• Walk in socks after 2–3 hours
• Furniture after 24 hours
• Rugs after 7 days
• Full cure time: about 7 days

Hardwax Oil

• Walk on floors after 8 hours (socks only during cure period)
• Furniture after 24 hours
• Rugs after 7 days
• Full cure time: about 7 days

Important Tips

• Never drag furniture across freshly finished floors—always lift and place carefully.
• Use felt pads under all furniture legs to prevent scratches.
• While rugs can technically go back after 7 days, we recommend waiting two full weeks whenever possible to ensure a complete cure.

This way, your floors stay beautiful and damage-free from day one.

It will depend on a few factors like what finish you choose and whether you use some preventative measures...

Built-In Finish Protection

Water-based finishes have UV inhibitors built in, which slow down the fading process. For homes with large windows or lots of natural light, we recommend upgrading to a higher-grade finish with stronger UV protection.

Practical Prevention

Even with UV-protective finishes, sunlight can still cause gradual fading over time. There are a few ways to minimize it:

• Rotate your rugs and furniture occasionally so fading is more even across the floor
• Close your blinds or curtains during the brightest parts of the day
• Use window shades, awnings, or high-quality window tint to reduce UV exposure

When we finish your project, we’ll leave you detailed cleaning and care instructions, along with a bottle of cleaning solution. Following these recommendations is the key to getting the maximum life out of your new floors.

How long your floors will last really depends on daily habits:

• Do you wear shoes indoors, or is your home shoe-free?
• Do you have pets with free range on the floors?
• Are you sweeping and cleaning regularly to prevent grit from scratching the surface?
• Do you use high-quality entry mats, felt pads under your furniture, and rugs in high-traffic areas?

The answers to these questions directly affect performance. With consistent care, your floors could last 20 years or more before needing major refinishing. Without it, they might require recoating in just a few years.

✅ Things To Do

• Use mats and rugs at entryways and high-traffic areas to keep dirt off floors
• Sweep or vacuum regularly with soft bristles to prevent grit from scratching the finish
• Use felt protectors under chairs and furniture, and replace them periodically
• Wipe up spills immediately with a damp (not wet) cloth or paper towel
• Keep pets’ nails trimmed to prevent scratches
• Vacuum daily if possible—dust and grit wear finishes down fastest
• Shake out rugs regularly and check pads under furniture
• Occasional deeper cleaning with the provided hardwood floor cleaning solution

❌ Things Not To Do

• Don’t wear high heels or dirty shoes indoors—consider a shoe-free home
• Don’t drag furniture or appliances across your floors
• Don’t use harsh cleaners such as ammonia, pine soap, oil soap, chlorine, bleach, or abrasives
• Don’t wax your floors (modern finishes don’t need it)
• Don’t overwater plants—use waterproof saucers under pots to prevent water damage

Please Remember...

Walking on dusty, dirty floors is the fastest way to damage your finish. Regular sweeping/vacuuming and using entry mats are the two most important maintenance steps for long-lasting floors.

📄 Download your free guide: Cleaning & Care Guide (PDF)